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PVD plating vs regular plating: why many ‘gold’ pieces of jewelry quickly fade

PVD plating vs gewone plating: waarom veel ‘gouden’ sieraden snel vervagen

Why so much jewelry loses its color

Many people look for:

  • jewelry that doesn't discolor
  • gold jewelry that stays beautiful
  • why jewelry fades quickly

And yet it often happens that after a short time, a piece of jewelry:

  • becomes duller
  • lighter in color
  • or even shows a different undertone

That is rarely due to how you wear it.
It is due to how it is made.


What is plating actually?

Most “gold” jewelry is not made of solid gold.

It consists of:

  • a base material (such as steel, silver, or brass)
  • with a layer of gold over it

We call that layer of gold plating.

But:
not all plating is the same — and that is exactly the difference.


Flash plating: why cheap jewelry fades quickly

A technique that is widely used in cheaper jewelry is flash plating.

This is:

  • an extremely thin layer of gold
  • applied quickly
  • intended to look good at first glance

The downside:

  • wears off quickly
  • loses color quickly
  • reveals the base layer

This type of jewelry is often not made to be worn for a long time.
It is made for short-term use.


Why thicker is not always better

A commonly heard claim is:
“more microns of gold = better quality”

That sounds logical, but is not always true.

This is especially true for stainless steel, where it works differently.

An extremely thick layer of gold:

  • can be less flexible
  • can develop hairline cracks more quickly
  • and therefore wear out faster

So it is not just about thickness, but about how the layer bonds.


PVD plating: what is the difference?

PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) is a more modern technique.

Instead of a layer “on top”:

  • the gold is bonded at the molecular level
  • a stronger bond is formed
  • the color remains more stable

Result:

  • less wear
  • deeper color
  • longer lifespan

Why some claims are incorrect

Sometimes you see claims such as:

  • “6 microns of gold on stainless steel”

In theory, that sounds impressive.
In practice, that is often not logical.

Why?

Because with stainless steel:

  • bonding is more important than extreme thickness
  • and a layer that is too thick is technically not optimal

That is why a micron count by itself says little,
without knowing how it was applied.


What you really need to pay attention to

If you are looking for jewelry that doesn't discolor:

Do not only pay attention to:

  • price
  • or marketing claims

But pay attention to:

  • the type of plating (e.g., PVD)
  • base material
  • color consistency
  • finish of details